Fine Lines

finelinesmagazine.com 9 a gel-based glycolic peel slows the delivery of active ingredients and works best on sensitive skin. What it's good for: Glycolic acid is best known for its antiaging benefits such as reducing fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and sun damage. It also can be used to treat dry acne, ingrown hairs, and the scarring associated with these conditions. Studies show that using a lightening agent with a series of glycolic treatments is significantly more effective than a single treatment in creating an overall lightening of the skin. LACTIC ACID Lactic acid is the most superficial of all peeling agents and is ideal for truly sensitive skin. It is an AHA derived from sour milk and known for its brightening and moisturizing effects. The molecules are larger in size, so deeper penetration does not happen as it does in glycolic acid. What it's good for: This acid's hydrating properties are great when used as a maintenance peel six weeks after a series of microdermabrasion, salicylic acid, or Jessner's solutions to maintain the skin's moisture level. Lactic acid can also be used in a series to treat dehydration, texture, fine lines, and rosacea. MANDELIC ACID Mandelic acid, derived from bitter almonds, is an aromatic AHA with a larger molecular structure than glycolic acid. Therefore, this peel penetrates the skin slowly and uniformly and is better tolerated by darker skin. Mandelic acid works by dissolving the tiny bonds that hold dead cells to the surface of the skin. Mandelic acid peels have antibacterial and anti- inflammatory properties. e lack of irritation, erythema, and burning sensation makes mandelic acid an effective choice in individuals with skin of color. What it's good for: Mandelic acid is best suited for oily, congested, acne-prone skin. It also has antiaging properties, making it an ideal acid to combat pigmentation issues caused by acne or other superficial lesions. SALICYLIC ACID Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its anti-bacterial effect and is used in superficial- and medium-depth peels. BHAs do not work in the same way as AHAs. ese agents have anti-inflammatory properties, which helps darker-skinned individuals with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. What it's good for: Salicylic acid is highly beneficial in treating skin conditions such as acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma. The use of salicylic acid decreases the amount of oil production, which further helps in the prevention of future acne outbreaks. It's a good all-around peeling agent for acne vulgaris, rosacea, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and texturally rough skin. JESSNER'S SOLUTION Jessner's solution is a blended peel made from a combination of resorcinol, lactic acid, and salicylic acid. A modified Jessner's solution can be used as an effective exfoliating agent for any skin type. The depth of this peel depends on the number of layers applied. What it's good for: Jessner's solution can be used to treat postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, acne, ingrown hairs, oily skin, and texturally rough skin in individuals with darker skin. TAKE CARE Peels can be appropriate and effective for skin of color, as long as your esthetician takes special considerations specific to your skin type. It's best to start conservatively, pay close attention to reactions and side effects, and then discuss a proper treatment plan that includes a series of peels. ▪ Using enzymes as an initial treatment gradually and gently prepares the skin and will give it time to adjust, which helps avoid post-peel complications.

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