Issue link: http://www.finelinesmagazine.com/i/1291193
8 ASCP Fine Lines START WITH ENZYMES Professional treatments for darker skin tones should begin with the use of an enzyme. Enzymes are a great alternative to chemical peels or as a progressive approach to chemical peeling. Enzymes are vital for maintaining normal cellular activity and assisting in the cell's repair process. Unlike chemical peels that force cell death, topical enzymes break down and eat dead skin cells on the skin's surface. Using enzymes as an initial treatment gradually and gently prepares the skin and will give it time to adjust, which helps avoid post-peel complications. Once the skin is healthier and the skin's pH is closer to its normal pH of 4.5–6, more resistant issues (like skin conditions) can be addressed. CHEMICAL PEELS A chemical peel is an acid solution that dissolves and sloughs off dead, scaly skin cells. There are a lot of opinions as well as misconceptions as to whether darker skin tones should receive chemical peels. In my opinion, they can—as long as proper preparation and precautions are taken. Chemical peels are a great option for treating many of the common skin conditions affecting darker skin types such as melasma, post-inflammatory pigment, acne, ingrown hairs, and scarring. In addition to treating these conditions, chemical peels will improve texture, target fine lines and wrinkles, reduce age spots and other imperfections, and bring a glow to the skin. Chemical peels are classified as superficial, mid-depth, or deep, based on the acid percentage and pH. Mid-depth and deep peels penetrate to the dermis, or live tissue, and are too aggressive for darker skin tones. Using an aggressive peel may lead to scarring or pigmentation. e following are chemical peels that are appropriate for skin of color and the common conditions they can help. GLYCOLIC ACID Glycolic acid, part of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family, is one of the most used acids in esthetics. It is derived from sugar cane or strawberries. Opinions vary on whether glycolic acid should be used on skin of color. Because of its small molecular size, it has the ability to penetrate deeper than intended. Using