Fine Lines

8 ASCP Fine Lines DARK CIRCLES Dark circles can surround the eye or appear just in certain areas, such as the lower lid. This darkness can be related to genetics and is often seen in darker skin types. (See the box below to determine your skin type.) Skin-pigment issues around the eyes can also cause darkness. Environmentally, dark circles can be attributed to poor blood flow in the eye tissues, leaky capillaries, or lack of adequate sleep. Sinus and nasal breathing issues can also contribute to circles under the eyes. Ingredients to help: For years, cover creams were the only viable answer to dark circles, but the latest ingredient technology reveals some real- world treatment solutions. A combination of special ingredients that includes chrysin (a flavonoid derived from passionflower) and hydroxysuccinimide is now being incorporated into state-of-the-art eye creams and serums. These ingredients work together by breaking up the darkness-causing blood leakage from skin capillaries. Used regularly at home, they can be significantly effective in reducing these types of dark circles. Ask your esthetician about products that contain these ingredients that you could use in your home care. Darkness due to melanin is not responsive to this combination of ingredients, but may be helped by creams containing brightening agents such as Bellis perennis (lawn daisy) flower extract, licorice extract, or bearberry. Deep melanin circles due to genetics can be very difficult to treat. PUFFY EYES Puffy eyes and eye bags are caused by fluid accumulation and may be related to fat pockets under the eyes that can be genetic or caused by herniated fat due to aging. When working with your esthetician, cool eye pads and gentle tapotement (a tapping technique) or manual lymph drainage massage may help dissipate puffiness, although it will reoccur. If eyes are puffy upon awakening, stand under a warm (not hot) shower, allowing the water to gently massage your face. This stimulates dissipation of pooled fluids in the eye area. Ingredients to help: Modern ingredients like hesperidin methyl chalcone (derived from citrus) and dipeptide-2 help reduce fluid retention around the eyes and also help with circles related to shadows from swelling. Ask your skin care therapist about these ingredients and if you are a candidate for their use. Fitzpatrick Scale: What Skin Type Are You? You might have heard your skin care practitioner use the term Fitzpatrick Scale. This is a system of skin analysis that classifi es skin based on its lightness or darkness, and how quickly it is aff ected by sun exposure. The Fitzpatrick system ranks skin on a 1–6 scale. People with Fitzpatrick Type 1 skin, for example, tend to have very light-colored skin, red or blonde hair, and blue or green eyes, and burn easily when exposed to the sun. In addition to being a predictor of potential sun damage, this scale helps estheticians evaluate the response of diff erent skin types to various skin care ingredients and procedures.

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