Issue link: http://www.finelinesmagazine.com/i/1351222
Have a question for Esty Emily? Email her at estyemily@ascpskincare.com. A S K E S T Y E M I L Y by Emily Morgan Associated Skin Care Professionals emorgan@ascpskincare.com Pore Reduction Proper cleansing and exfoliation can help keep pores healthy and tight I've noticed my pores seem to be getting larger the older I get. What can I do to make them go away or make them smaller? A: If your facial pores seem to be getting larger with age, you're not crazy (although I do recommend stepping away from the 10x magnifying mirror, because that's certainly not doing you any favors). The skin's natural exfoliation process can begin to slow down as early as our mid-20s. As a result, collagen and elastin (the fibers that contribute to tightened and toned- looking skin) are not produced as much as they once were, which causes your skin (and pores) to stretch out and loosen up. But don't despair! While there is no way to "get rid of" your pores (pores are the opening for hair follicles and where the skin can release internal oils and sweat), there are several ways to help minimize their appearance. Daily cleansing will help immensely. If you are not cleansing your skin regularly, you're allowing dirt and debris to clog your pores, which not only causes your pores to expand in size, but they also become more visible (yes, we're talking about you, blackheads). Manual exfoliants that contain micrograins can also be incorporated for a "power cleanse." While we're on the subject of exfoliation, chemical exfoliation in the form of peels can do wonders for minimizing pore size. You'll want to consult with your esthetician as to the best route to take here, as there are several options. Commonly used peels include alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs); glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids; trichloroacetic acid (TCA); and Jessner's solution. While manual exfoliants work on the surface layer of the skin, chemical peels work under the skin's surface and over time are generally a deeper and more effective treatment for minimizing pores than manual exfoliation by itself. Depending on the condition of your skin, you may want to also consider introducing a retinoid or tretinoin (vitamin A) to your skin care routine. Both assist with boosting skin cell turnover, which is incredible for increasing your collagen and elastin production and, subsequently, tightening your pores. You can obtain over-the-counter products that contain smaller amounts of retinol or vitamin A in it, but for something more aggressive, you will need to consult with a dermatologist or physician to determine your exact prescription strength. There are other lifestyle changes that can contribute to larger pores. Smoking prevents nutrients from reaching the skin, which results in damaged collagen and elastin fibers, causing the skin (and pores) to become saggy and dull. Excessive sun exposure also accelerates the aging process, which is counterproductive to your goals of firmer, more youthful-looking skin. ▪