Issue link: http://www.finelinesmagazine.com/i/1192395
www.ascpskincare.com 11 portion evaporates, leaving only the minerals and pigment without any oil or emollient residue. As the skin produces oil during the day, this type of foundation helps absorb it. This type of foundation is applied with a stippling sponge, and there is a bit of a learning curve to get the technique down, but this type of product can provide great coverage and looks great when it is blended well. Because it is fat-free, it will not contribute to pore clogging in oily and acne-prone skin. Mineral powders are also good choices for oily and acne-prone skin. Make sure the powder is blended with a noncomedogenic (non-pore-clogging) binding agent, which helps the mineral powder adhere to the skin. Mineral powders are generally safe for acne-prone skin as long as they don't contain oils and fatty binding agents. Look for products that have been dermatologist-tested and are nonacnegenic. Another problem ingredient group for oily and acne- prone skin is D&C red dyes. These dyes are derived from coal tar and can cause comedo development—especially closed comedones. These impactions appear as small, under-the- surface bumps and can occur anywhere on the face, but they are most common in the cheek and chin areas. DRY AND AGING SKIN These skin types are basically the opposite of oily skin in terms of ingredient needs. Alipidic (oil-dry) skin types do not generally form clogged pores and don't have acne issues, so choosing makeup can be a little easier. However, dry skin can have issues with makeup caking in wrinkles. Cream foundations and liquids are the best bets for these skin types. They spread easily and contain emollients that help add a bit of a layer on top of dry skin that can help soften the appearance of fine lines. Silicones are often used as the vehicles for dry-skin makeup, as they "ride the surface" of the skin so pigments and powder ingredients are less likely to cake in wrinkles and dry areas. Dry skin should be treated with good hydrating and moisture-binding ingredients, like ceramides and hyaluronic acid, prior to makeup application. When the skin is well hydrated and in good condition, makeup always looks better and more natural. In general, "sparkly" makeup or frosted or super bright eye shadows—and heavy use of powder—does not look great on dry or aging skin. Pretty, muted colors like lilacs, plums, and gray-blues are good choices. SENSITIVE SKIN The main makeup issue with sensitive skin is to make sure the products have been thoroughly dermatologist-tested. Fragrance-free is also important, as fragrances are the number-one allergen in cosmetics. Generally, sensitive skin does well with light mineral powder foundation, which can help cover redness without looking like heavy coverage makeup. ASK FOR HELP Let your esthetician help you make the right cosmetic choices. There is a wide variety of professional foundations and color palettes, and your skin care pro can offer application advice. And, of course, remember the skin care that happens prior to using makeup can make a huge difference in the wearability of the products—and can make your skin look fresh and naturally beautiful! ▪