Issue link: http://www.finelinesmagazine.com/i/1133170
8 ASCP Fine Lines A Vast Sea of Acid Formulas Every acid has a specific purpose and effect on skin cells and tissue regeneration. These acids are some of the most commonly used peeling agents, and can vary in intensity depending on the pH and percentage. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring, nontoxic, organic acids. The most commonly used include glycolic acid and lactic acid. These acids loosen the bonds that hold the cells together, forcing cell death and eventual peeling. Azelaic acid is created by oxygenating oleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats and grains such as barley and wheat. This is used as a lightening, lifting, and antibacterial agent. Salicylic acid is extracted from the willow and birch tree. It is a relatively safe, low-risk acid, as it is self- neutralizing and produces a drying and lifting effect. It also dissolves layers of the epidermis and, depending on the percentage used, can create heavy lifting of the cells. Jessner is a combination of lower-strength acids (salicylic, resorcinol, and lactic) that synergizes to produce an efficient exfoliating agent with less risk. Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that converts to retinoic acid. It is a DNA regulator that assists in collagen synthesis, aids in the formation of blood vessels, and encourages healthy cell formation. Retinols are important to support the cellular injury caused by other acids. Next-Generation Acids Beyond the tried-and-true classics, there are now a bevy of new acids, couture formulations, and unique blends that deliver amazing, pro-youth results. These include flower acids, malic and tartaric acids, and vitamin A boosted with peptides. Flower acids are obtained from hibiscus chalices and lotus root, and are much friendlier to the skin than most other choices. The properties range from high antioxidant support to increasing hydration in the skin while creating lifting and exfoliation. Malic acid, tartaric acid, and red wine vinegar: Malic and tartaric acids regenerate, firm and tone, and deliver vital nutrients to the skin. Wine vinegar extract is rich in resveratrol, a potent antioxidant and free-radical scavenger. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, stimulates cell turnover and collagen synthesis, and inhibits proteases (enzymes that break down proteins and peptides).