Fine Lines

www.ascpskincare.com 13 While intrinsic aging symptoms include expression lines, some skin elastosis (sagging) at age 50+, and some skin dryness, sun exposure is responsible for the large majority—up to 85 percent—of extrinsic aging symptoms, including age-related pigment issues, deep wrinkling, criss-cross wrinkling, leathery texture, severe elastosis, both benign and cancerous skin growths, and many other issues. Prevention As is true with many conditions of the human body, prevention is always the most effective treatment for aging, or at least photoaging. We can't change genetics (at least at this point in time), but we can prevent many physical symptoms of skin aging— as well as skin cancer— with good skin care, sun care, and healthy habits. Avoiding Sun Damage The avoidance of deliberate sun exposure and deliberate tanning, including tanning bed/booth usage, is the first step in preventing damage that will result in eventual wrinkling, sagging, and dark spots, and hyperpigmentation, as well as actinic damage (pre-cancers) and cancers of the skin. Sun exposure is also the cause of many ugly, noncancerous skin growths, as well as the scars from their medical/surgical removal. Ultraviolet B rays (UVB) are shorter rays, penetrating the epidermis but stopping at the papillary dermis. UVB rays are responsible for sunburns and most skin cancers and growths. Ultraviolet A rays (UVA) penetrate the skin more deeply and are responsible for dermal injury, leading to most visible signs of skin photoaging. The easiest way to remember this is "UVB is for burning; UVA is for aging." The most important step in preventing the appearance of aging skin is avoiding sun exposure, especially between the hours of 10:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m. If you are going to walk or run, apply a water-resistant sunscreen 20 minutes before you start, and try to plan those outdoor activities before 10:00 a.m. or after 2:00 p.m. Believe it or not, most of our sun damage comes from day-to-day "ambient" exposure: walking the dog, getting the mail, talking to your neighbor, and even driving. So, even in winter, it is important to wear an SPF 15 or higher broad-spectrum sunscreen product every single day! The easiest way to do this is to find a sunscreen-containing moisturizer. Wear this every day and you will have the biggest aging factor covered! The Right Sunscreen "Broad spectrum" means the sunscreen filters both UVA and UVB rays. In order to claim that a sunscreen is broad spectrum, it must pass the "critical wavelength" test administered by a claims evaluation laboratory. The test measures the actual spectrum of light filtered by the sunscreen product. Passing this test means the product will screen both UVA and UVB rays. Almost every broad-spectrum sunscreen contains several active ingredients. There are two types of sunscreen ingredients: absorbing and physical. Absorbing sunscreens are sometimes called chemical sunscreens, which is actually erroneous because physical sunscreens are also chemicals. Absorbing sunscreens work by absorbing UV rays. Physical sunscreens work by deflecting the rays. There are only two FDA-approved physical sunscreen ingredients: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Physical sunscreens are very effective and deflect both UVA and UVB rays, making them good choices to use in broad-spectrum products. They are also less likely to cause irritation and allergies than the absorbing sunscreen agents. The problem with using just physical screening agents in a product is that these products tend to be pasty and thick, and not always user or makeup friendly. Absorbing sunscreen agents in general make for more elegant skin products, but they don't always do a good job with UVA. To make the most effective and wearable sunscreen product, more than one agent must be used, and, in my opinion, blending absorbing and physical sunscreen agents gives you the best broad-spectrum protection in the most user-friendly and cosmetically elegant product. No matter which type you choose, wear your sunscreen every day. Your skin will thank you! ▪ We can't change genetics (at least at this point in time), but we can prevent many physical symptoms of skin aging— as well as skin cancer— with good skin care, sun care, and healthy habits.

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